Monday, June 21, 2010

Chicago- Willis Tower

17-5-2010(Monday) Chicago

Immediately after check-in into the hotel,the first thing in my mind is to get into Willis Tower, which is nearby. The hotel is located at West Adam Street, 3 blocks away to Willis Tower. After South La Salle Street, South Wells St, and South Franklin St, Willis Tower is right at the corner of South Wacker Drive. The arrival at Willis Tower in time will enable us to watch both the day view and night view of Chicago city from the tower.
There are two places to enjoy the birds-eye view of Chicago City, one is from the 103rd floor of Skydeck Chicago in the Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower) and the other is from the 94th floor of Hancock Observatory. Hancock building is at 875, N. Michigan Ave., 94th Floor, Chicago. We selected Willis Tower instead of Hancock Observatory, mainly because Willis Tower is the global icon, and it is significant in our family history. My mother-in-law had visited the building, and she had talk so much about the building. Both buildings are fee based, you need to pay for the entrance. The admission for Willis Tower is US$15-95 per adult. If you cannot wait for the long queuing, the fast pass is US$30 per adult. To beat the tourist crowd during the day time, the best time to visit is after 5 p.m., you can enjoy the view better without the crowd at non-peak hours.

Willis Tower
Willis Tower, formerly named Sears Tower, is a 108-story, 1451-foot (442 m) skyscraper in Chicago, Illinois. At the time of its completion in 1974(some said 1973), it was the tallest building in the world, surpassing the World Trade Center towers in New York, from its construction in 1974 until 1998 (when the Petronas Towers was built). Currently, Willis Tower is the tallest building in the United States and the fifth-tallest freestanding structure in the world as well as the fifth tallest building in the world to the roof.

Standing at 1,450 feet and 110 stories high, Willis Tower is the tallest building in the western hemisphere. Offering more than 3.8 million square feet of office and retail space, Willis Tower is the ideal business location in Chicago.

The change in name
Although Sears' naming rights expired in 2003, the building continued to be called Sears Tower for several years. In March 2009 London-based insurance broker Willis Group Holdings, Ltd., agreed to lease a portion of the building and obtained the building's naming rights as part of the agreement. On July 16, 2009, at 10:00 am Central Time, the building was officially renamed Willis Tower. Some people however are not in favor of the name change.

The location
The building's official address is 233 South Wacker Drive, Chicago, Illinois 60606. The location is bounded by Wacker Drive, Adams Street, Franklin Street and Jackson Boulevard. The Property’s location at Adams Street and Wacker Drive is ideal for both corporate users and financial services firms. Wacker Drive is recognized as the West Loop’s primary artery and is home to many major corporate users including UBS and the Chicago Mercantile Exchange. The Property is also located two blocks west of LaSalle Street, which is recognized as the center of Chicago’s financial district. Willis Tower offers superior access to transportation as well as proximity to Chicago’s office demand generators(City Hall, Mercantile Exchange, Chicago Board of Trade, etc.).

The Property is situated on a square-shaped site bounded by South Wacker Drive to the west, Adams Street to the north, Franklin Street to the east, and Jackson Boulevard to the south. The site size is approximately 2.96 acres of land. The Property consists of three lower levels and a 110-story high-rise tower. The lower levels occupy nearly the entire site footprint and include a private 160-stall parking garage, retail spaces, a loading dock, storage, elevator, plumbing and electrical rooms. Secure access to the executive parking garage is via Franklin Street while secure access to the loading dock is via lower Wacker Drive. The building tower rises 110 stories (including the penthouse roof) above the three lower levels, and occupies a footprint of approximately 50,625 square feet. The main lobby of Willis Tower contains one entrance on the east side of the building and one entrance on the west side of the building. The west entrance is accessed directly from South Wacker Drive, leading directly into the large, three-story lobby. The east entrance is accessed directly from Franklin Street.



The Skydeck

Skydeck Chicago at Willis Tower opened as The Sears Tower Skydeck observation deck on June 22, 1974. It is located on the 103rd floor of the tower. It is 1,353 feet (412 m) above ground and is one of the most famous tourist attractions in Chicago. Tourists can experience how the building sways on a windy day. They can see far over the plains of Illinois and across Lake Michigan to Indiana, Michigan and Wisconsin on a clear day. It takes about 60 seconds to soar to the top in either of two special, Schindler Group elevators. The Skydeck competes with the John Hancock Center's observation floor a mile and a half away, which is 323 feet (98 m) lower. 1.3 million tourists visit the Skydeck annually. You’ll see the best view and best overview of Chicago. At 1,353 feet (412 meters), the Skydeck is the highest observatory in Chicago.

The view is amazing! You can see 40 – 50 miles (65 - 80 kilometers) on a clear day. Imagine seeing Michigan, Indiana, Illinois and Wisconsin, just by walking around the Skydeck. And there is finer view of Chicago architecture from the tower.

If you want to know what time the sun will set on the day of your visit, you can get the best of both views and plan on arriving to the Skydeck 30-45 minutes prior to your sunset time! Go to www.sunrisesunset.com for the Chicago sunset calendar. We are able to see the sunset view as well as night view of Chicago city.

The Ledge - glass box balconies
In January 2009, the Skydeck began a major renovation including the installation of glass balconies extending approximately four feet over Wacker Drive from the 103rd floor. The all-glass boxes allow visitors to look through the floor to the street 1,353 feet (412 m) below. The boxes, which can bear five short tons of weight (about 4.5 metric tons), opened to the public on July 2, 2009. The glass box balconies is called The Ledge. The Ledge brings an exhilarating new experience to the Skydeck. At 1,353 feet up, The Ledge’s glass boxes extend out 4.3 feet from the skyscraper’s Skydeck on the 103rd floor, providing never-before-seen views of the city. There are 4 boxes of glass balconies, one of them will be occupied by the official photographer of the operator of the Ledge.





Skydeck was the most exciting attraction in the building, other than the night view of Chicago. For person with height phobia or fear of height, it is even a bold step to put the foot on the floor of glass balconies, called the Ledge. To look down from the glass balconies is another courageous move, once you are standing on the glass floor. There are moment of yelling, shouting and excitement; as tourists trying to move into the glass balconies. Finally even to take a photo is another excitement moment ...... . forgetting that you are actually standing 1,353 ft above the street below.

The consolation of the night will be the photo taken with the night view of Chicago city as background, a proof that you are man and woman with guts and courage, that you have overcome the fear of height. Willis Tower, despite the name change from Sear Tower, is still the global icon...

Note: A second Skydeck on the 99th floor is used when the 103rd floor is closed. The tourist entrance can be found on the south side of the building along Jackson Boulevard.



This is video about lightning strike Sear Tower. Some said it is fake, but whatever it is, the effect is cool....



You will not be regret that you are here. Even Willis Tower is not the highest building in the world, it is the icon of Chicago city, the historical building that is famous as Sear Tower. Personally it was also the building that the late mother in law frequently mentioned, it is the object of her story of USA tour. It added meaning to the family members and grandchildren, that grandma had been here in early 80s, not long after the building was completed.

There will be more story of Willis Tower, and grandmother's Sear Tower when we returned to Malaysia. It is the journey of three generations.... Mother, daughter, and grandchildren....The Willis Tower. What a significant building to the family, and the story will continue........

Union Station, Chicago
After the visit of Willis Tower, we went to Union Station and have a look and personal experience of the Chicago's public transport. Chicago is one of the transportation hub of USA, the city is also one of the largest hubs of passenger rail service in the nation. Many Amtrak long distance services originate from Union Station. Such services terminate in New York, Seattle, Portland, New Orleans, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Antonio, and Washington, D.C.The Regional Transportation Authority (RTA) coordinates the operation of the three service boards: CTA, Metra, and Pace. The Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) handles public transportation in the city of Chicago and a few adjacent suburbs outside of the Chicago city limits. The CTA operates an extensive network of buses and a rapid transit elevated and subway system known as the Chicago 'L' (for "elevated"), with lines designated by colors. These rapid transit lines also serve both Midway and O'Hare Airports. The CTA's rail lines consist of the Red, Blue, Green, Orange, Brown, Purple, Pink, and Yellow lines. Both the Red and Blue lines offer 24 hour service which makes Chicago one of the few cities in the world (and one of only three cities in the United States of America) to offer rail service every day of the year for 24 hours around the clock. A new subway/elevated line, the Circle Line, is also in the planning stages by the CTA. Metra, the nation's second-most used passenger regional rail network, operates an 11-line commuter rail service in Chicago and its suburbs. The Metra Electric Line shares its trackage with Northern Indiana Commuter Transportation District's South Shore Line, which provides commuter service between South Bend and Chicago. Pace provides bus and paratransit service in over 200 surrounding suburbs with some extensions into the city as well. A 2005 study found that one quarter of commuters used public transit.(source: wikipedia)

Now you know Chicago is more than Blues and Jazz.....

Tip on picture taking at Willis Tower
When shooting towards the windows, use the “backlight” function on your camera (if available). Turn off your flash and use a polarizer filter, if you want to see what’s out the window behind your subject.

Related articles & websites:

1. http://www.willistower.com/driving.html
2. http://www.theskydeck.com/theledge.asp
3. http://www.nbcchicago.com/around-town/archive/New-Sears-Tower-Ledge-Will-Suspend-You-in-Midair.html

Chicago - The Windy City

Chicago is the largest city in both Illinois and the Midwest, and the third most populous city in the United States, with over 2.8 million living within the city limits. Its metropolitan area, commonly named "Chicagoland", is the 26th most populous in the world, home to an estimated 9.7 million people spread across the U.S. states of Illinois, Wisconsin, and Indiana. Chicago is primarily located within Cook County, with the exception of a small northwestern portion of the city at O'Hare International Airport that is located within DuPage County.

Chicago was founded in 1833, near a portage between the Great Lakes and the Mississippi River watershed. The Potawatomi were forcibly removed from their land following the Treaty of Chicago. The city became a major transportation and telecommunications hub in North America. Today, the city retains its status as a major hub, both for industry and infrastructure, with O'Hare International Airport being the second busiest airport in the world. In 2008[update], the city hosted 45.6 million domestic and overseas visitors.


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In modern times, the city has taken on an additional dimension as a center for business and finance and is listed as one of the world's top ten Global Financial Centers. Chicago is a stronghold of the Democratic Party and has been home to many influential politicians, including the current President of the United States, Barack Obama. The World Cities Study Group at Loughborough University rated Chicago as an "alpha world city" due to Chicago's important role in the global economic system.

Globally recognized, Chicago has numerous nicknames, which reflect the impressions and opinions about historical and contemporary Chicago. The best known include: "Chi-town", "Windy City", "Second City", and the "City of Big Shoulders". Chicago has also been called "the most American of big cities"

(source: wikipedia)

Chicago, Broadway, Blue & Jazz.....



17-5-2010(Monday) Des Moines to Chicago

Ben's friend, a Korean took us to the bus stop at Des Moines city. We left Mr Bruce house early, saying goodbye to Becky.

The Korean friend took us to Capital building again, to have the tour of the inside of the building.

We met many Malaysian families at the bus stop, they also take the same bus to Chicago. They are the family who come all the way to attend the graduation ceremony and take opportunity to tour USA.

Left Des Moines early morning by Megabus, which provide service from Des Moines to Chicago and Iowa City. The bus stop is located on the north side of Walnut Street just east of 4th Street. Fares from $1 and up, if booked early it will be cheaper.

Megabus is from Megabus.com, which is the first, low-cost, express bus service to offer city-to-city travel for as low as $1 via the Internet. Since launching in April 2006, megabus.com has served more than 4 million passengers throughout 28 major cities in the Midwest and Northeast. The bus company has providing low-cost and reliable bus services serving 28 cities from two hubs at New York and Chicago. Their luxury double deckers bus was new and clean, which also offer free wi-fi, panoramic windows and a green alternative way to travel. We traveled in comfort with ample space for relax, under the care of driver, who is professional. Megabus is a welcome alternative to Greyhound, which buses are normally old, and look dirty. The new bus company will provide healthy competition to the Greyhound and other intercity bus companies. My friend Loh HK is still have fond memory of his travel with Greyhound bus during his university days in USA. He had traveled USA by Greyhound bus in late 70s or early 80s. He said the bus was for the poors and students, hoping that Megabus will provide another different target market, higher segment group. The bus travel is part of the plan for multi-mode transport for the USA tour. We want to look at the life of normal ordinary US citizen, and not life projected by the Hollywood movie, especially life of ordinary people after the financial crisis.

Iowa state is practically a flat plain, looking out from window, there are farms...

The bus stopped at Iowa City , which give me opportunity to explore a while the old capital of Iowa State. The bus continued the journey after Iowa City, there is not much attraction outside the window, except the farmland, and the architecture of the residential houses at the small town the bus passed through. The bus trip is comfortable, the passenger either sleep or playing with their computer. You can also hear a professional, either a project manager or Art director, giving instruction to her staff in the bus by her hand phone, there are people who are doing their work or university student doing their assignment by using their laptop. Is the American using public transport instead of car for their business trip to save cost?...

The first Impression of Chicago City

It was raining when we arrived at Chicago. The first impression of Chicago was not that good. The passengers waiting at the bus stop(at S Canal Street), near Union Station, most of them are blacks. The surrounding railway track looked old and atmosphere at the surrounding looked rough and heavy, especially for the first time visitor. It was unlike when I arrived at Chicago airport on my first entry to USA earlier. Note: The impression changed later after we begin our exploration in the city. Chicago is the city I liked.....



After unloading the luggage from the bus, it was time to search for the location of the hotel. It was in downtown of Chicago at W Adam St, walking distance from the bus stop. Crossing the Chicago River, it is just 4 blocks away. The weather was cold with strong winds, and rain. But the rain was not heavy, we still can walk to the hotel. The Club Quarters Hotel, Central Loop is located at 111, W Adam Street, inside the Loop, and walking distance to Willis Tower(Sear Tower). In fact we have passed the Willis Tower while walking to hotel, we are in such a hurry, Willis Tower was overlooked by us without notice. Immediately after hotel check-in, we waste no time and walk to Willis Tower. Our objective is to arrive in time for the sunset view of Chicago city, and continue with the night view when the city is brighten with lighting. The night view of the city is magnificent.

The first night in Chicago, looking out of hotel window to the street, we do not know what to expect from the city. A city famous for its industrial look and gangland, as projected by the Hollywood film.

This is what I read prior to departure from Malaysia:

"Despite a big decline in the crime rate from the 1970's and '80's, Chicago is still a big city with big city problems. There are run-down areas within a few blocks of some well-traveled places such as near the United Center and US Cellular Field. The majority of the city's violent crimes occur within a relatively small number of neighborhoods well off the beaten path in the South and West Sides, but given the chance nature of crime, you should exercise the usual precautions wherever you go. And just because a neighborhood has a bad reputation, you might still have a perfectly good time there, as long as it falls within your comfort level.

Take caution in the Loop at night — after working hours, the Loop gets quiet and dark in a hurry west of State Street, but you'll be fine near hotels, and close to Michigan Avenue and the lake. When disembarking a crowded CTA train, especially in the downtown-area subways, be wary of purse snatchers.".

And I am now at the Loop, Downtown of Chicago city......what do you expected?... first time visitor to Chicago city, all on your own....

Chicago is not only Broadway, Blue and Jazz; it is much more than that.....

(to be continued...)

Reference and related articles/websites:

1. http://www.choosechicago.com/Pages/default.aspx
2. http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-191501928-chicago_vacations-i-action-pictures-tgphotoid-?fromiy=1#video
3. http://www.cityofchicago.org/city/en.html

World Refugee Day

Yesterday 20-6-2010 was World Refugee Day. A day before, 19-6-2010 was the 65th birthday of Aung San Suu Kyi of Burma.

World leaders and thousands of supporters honored Burmese democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi on her 65th birthday, June 19 according to exiled media Democratic Voice of Burma. Suu Kyi has been under house arrest in Burma for nearly 15 years. Burma under Junta has been one of the largest exporter of refugee and source of IDP in Asia. Let us remember Burma and Aung San on World Refugee Day 2010, a call for the release of Aung San Suu Kyi, and return to democracy for Burma.



As World Refugee Day gets under way, UNHCR appeals for the displaced

News Stories, 20 June 2010

GENEVA, June 20 (UNHCR) – As millions of people around the globe were marking World Refugee Day on Sunday, UNHCR chief António Guterres called on the international community to do more for the forcibly displaced.

High Commissioner made his call during a press conference in Syria – broadcast on a live video link – where he met earlier in the day with President Bashar Assad and other top leaders. Syria hosts about 1 million mainly Iraqi refugees, according to the government.

"I appeal to the international community to do more to host refugees," Guterres said just two days after the UN refugee agency announced that 100,000 Iraqi refugees have been referred for resettlement from the Middle East to third countries since 2007, a major milestone for one of the world's largest refugee populations.

UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon, meanwhile, also made an appeal on behalf of refugees in a special World Refugee Day (WRD) message. "Refugees have been deprived of their homes, but they must not be deprived of their futures," he said, while calling for working with host governments to deliver services and for intensified efforts to resolve conflicts so that refugees can return home.

With "Home," as this year's global theme, UNHCR and its partners, including governments, donors, non-governmental organizations, goodwill ambassadors and refugees themselves, have been taking part over the past week in awareness-raising, cultural, educational, environmental and sport activities, especially football tournaments in this year of the World Cup finals in South Africa.

Special messages from Guterres and UNHCR Goodwill Ambassador Angelina Jolie, who met Colombian refugees in northern Ecuador last week, have been broadcast around the world. Jolie, Guterres and US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton took part in a global live event on Friday linking four countries.

.........

UNHCR's main event in the Malaysian capital of Kuala Lumpur literally stopped traffic at KL Sentral, the largest train station in Southeast Asia. Huge crowds came to watch and take part in the activities, including a simulated refugee experience in a maze-like structure. Visitors faced the same difficult choices as refugees fleeing persecution or violence as they tried to find a way out.

The event included other reality experiences aimed at raising awareness about the life of a refugee. There was also a handicrafts bazaar and cultural performances. Local celebrities and performers lent their support to the event.

By Leo Dobbs in Geneva

(extract from http://www.unhcr.org/4c1e47006.html)

Personally I remember my refugee friends in Burma/Thai border, especially the children .....this is another Refugee Day, 65th birthday of Aung San Suu Kyi, another year has gone, and no sign of returning to democracy in their homeland. The date for returning to their home land is still unknown. What happen to the international voices and their political power? the degree of their concern is lesser than Tibet or Iraq? or will it be facing the same fate as like Nagaland or East Timor? Burma has no strategic oil deposit, nor political advantage to be used for international political game?.....

Poor Burma.....How long must they wait ....

Ironically during my visit to USA, I have opportunity to meet some ex-Vietnamese refugee in USA. Most of them have built their life in the new country, many will not return to their home country. They have been staying in their host country(now their home country) longer than their original home country, Vietnam.

Will the tribal refugee in Burma/Thai border having the opportunity as the former Vietnamese refugee? or forever remain as IDP?......

Nobody know, only God know....

Sunday, May 16, 2010

Des Moines

This is the 2nd day at Des Moines, the capital city of IOWA state, United State of America. Des Moines is not a tourist area for local American as well as foreigners. It is in the mid west of USA, an agricultural region famous for oats and corns. But unexpectedly it is also the capital of insurance industry in USA.

Iowa is a American state located in the Midwestern United States, an area often referred to as the "American Heartland." It derives its name from the Ioway people, one of the many American Indian tribes that occupied the state at the time of European exploration. Iowa was a part of the French colony of New France. After the Louisiana Purchase, settlers laid the foundation for an agriculture-based economy in the heart of the Corn Belt. Iowa is often known as the "Food Capital of the World", but Iowa's economy, culture, and landscape are diverse. In the mid and late 20th century, Iowa's agricultural economy transitioned to a diversified economy of advanced manufacturing, processing, financial services, biotechnology, and green energy production.Iowa has been listed as one of the safest states in which to live. Des Moines is Iowa's capital and largest city.


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Des Moines was incorporated on September 22, 1851, as Fort Des Moines which was shortened to "Des Moines" in 1857. It is named after the Des Moines River, which may have been adapted from the French Rivière des Moines, literally meaning "River of the Monks."

Des Moines is located within the Polk County. The 2008 estimate was 424,778. It is also the county seat, as well as the capital city of Iowa State, and the largest city in the state. Polk County is one of the five counties that make up the Des Moines–West Des Moines Metropolitan Statistical Area, which consists of five central Iowa counties: Polk, Dallas, Warren, Madison, and Guthrie.



Des Moines River

Des Moines River is a tributary river of the Mississippi River, approximately 525 miles (845 km) long to its farther headwaters, in the upper Midwestern United States. The largest river flowing across the state of Iowa, it rises in southern Minnesota, and flows across Iowa from northwest to southeast, passing from the glaciated plains into the unglaciated hills near the city of Des Moines, which takes its name from the river. It forms a short portion of Iowa's border with Missouri in Lee County. The Great Flood of 1993 on the river and its tributary the Raccoon in the summer of 1993 forced the evacuation of much of the city of Des Moines and nearby communities. On June 13, 2008, officials issued a voluntary evacuation order for much of downtown and other areas bordering the Des Moines River. The river had reached flood stage in many locations, and Mayor Frank Cownie said the evacuations were an attempt "to err on the side of citizens and residents."

The Des Moines River serves as the marker for street names having the prefix "East" or not (and occasionally "West" when on the western side). This is especially important for streets running north-south. "1st Ave" would be on the west side of the river, E 1st Ave the eastern side and are thus completely different streets. Streets running east-west and which exist on both sides of the river typically have an "East" prefix if east of the river. There are some "West" prefixes for those on the other side of the river but this is less common. Perhaps more confusing, there are streets which lie on both sides of the river, such as Grand Ave, which is "E Grand Ave" east of the river but simply "Grand Ave" west of the river; yet "E University Ave" is officially named "W University Ave" when on the western side of the river. Unlike the north-south streets, it is possible to arrive at your destination by simply continuing east or west--depending on your final destination. The demarcation for "SE" and "SW" prefixes is a bit more ambiguous but would certainly refer to a street south of Grand Ave/E Grand Ave and either the western or eastern side of the river. For most part, "NW" refers to streets west of the river and "NE" east of it, but not always so. Additionally, there is no standard reference point for determining when a street gains a "NW" or "NE" prefix.

The five-county metropolitan area is ranked 91st in terms of population in the United States according to 2008 estimates with 556,230 residents according to United States Census Bureau. The city proper population was 198,682 at the 2000 census. At the 2005-2007 American Community Survey Estimates, the city's population was 82.2% White (75.6% non-Hispanic White alone), 9.5% Black or African American, 0.9% American Indian and Alaska Native, 4.2% Asian, 5.6% from some other race and 2.3% from two or more races. 10.2% of the total population were Hispanic or Latino of any race

Insurance Industry
Des Moines is a major center for the insurance industry and also has a sizable financial services and publishing business base. In fact, Des Moines was credited with the "number one spot for U.S. insurance companies" in a Business Wire article. Many insurance companies are headquartered in Des Moines, including the Principal Financial Group, Marsh (formerly KVI), EMC Insurance Group, Allied Insurance (now part of Nationwide), AmerUs Group (now part of Aviva), Holmes Murphy, and American Republic Insurance Company. Des Moines has been referred to as the "Hartford of the West" because of this. Principal is one of two Fortune 500 companies having headquarters in Iowa, ranking 273rd on the magazine's list in 2009. As a center of financial and insurance services, other major corporations headquartered outside of Iowa have established a presence in the Des Moines Metro area, including Wells Fargo, ING Group, and Electronic Data Systems.

The Meredith Corporation, a leading publishing and marketing company, is also based in Des Moines. Meredith publishes Better Homes and Gardens, one of the most widely circulated publications in the United States. Forbes Magazine called Des Moines the country’s best place for business and careers. Kiplinger's Personal Finance 2008 Best Cities List featured Des Moines as #9. Des Moines’ economy was among among the best-performing cities in the country during the first quarter of 2010, according to a report from the Brookings Institute.

Presidential election
Des Moines is an important city in United States presidential politics as the capital of Iowa, which is home to the Iowa caucuses. The Iowa caucuses have been the first major electoral event in nominating the President of the United States since 1972. Hence, many presidential candidates set up campaign headquarters in Des Moines. A 2007 article in The New York Times stated "if you have any desire to witness presidential candidates in the most close-up and intimate of settings, there is arguably no better place to go than Des Moines".



The skyscraper
Principal Financial Group's 45-story tower at 801 Grand (1991). 801 Grand, also known as The Principal Building, is a skyscraper located in Des Moines, Iowa. It is named after its street address, being located along Grand Avenue in the downtown area of the city between 8th & 9th Street (with High Street the northern border). Completed in 1991 and standing at 630 ft (192 m) it is currently the tallest building not only in Des Moines, but also in the state of Iowa.

(extract from wikipedia and wikitravel)

13-5-2010(Thursday) Hong Kong- Chicago-Des Moines International Airport

The flight continued from Singapore Changi Airport to Hong Kong Airport, where the plane wait for more than 2 hours to continue to Chicago. Hong Kong to Chicago is long flight, crossing the Pacific Ocean. The flight is actually a long flight from Hong Kong, over Tokyo, Japan and straight to the north beside the Russian land, sourth of Sterling Strait(if the name is correct), the strait between Alaska and Siberia. It was a turning curve from Siberia to North America, then it crossed the Pacific Ocean and finally over the American land mass from Canada to Chicago, no wonder it was a cold and long journey.

We have a more than 2 hr delay at the Chicago airport, the airline told us it was due to strong wind. It is normal, as Chicago was known as City of Winds. It was a long wait, and we met an insurance woman who was offering her help to phone Ben, informing that the flight will be delay. We also met a young college student from Des Moines, who reassure that it was normal for the flight delay. Just wait patiently for the resume of the flight. We finally departed at 7.45p.m. Ben and his friend Robby Patterson picked us up at De Moines International Airport(DSM) at Fleur Dr.

We are staying at a beautiful bungalow house owned by Mr Bruce and Beckey family. Mr Bruce introduced his family members to us. A beautiful family with strong bond based on Christian built up.

The night was unexpectedly cold, even the time now is early summer, the climate is still remain like late Spring. The turning of season is slow or is it because of the Great Lake effect?.

14-5-2010(Friday)Des Moines

First day at De Moines. Wake up late due to tiredness from jet lag

Visit to the university campus at University Ave, Des Moines, and meeting some friends. A small private university famous for actuarial science, with long history of establishment since 1881.

After 7pm. Tim Crane, the son of Mr Bruce took us to the Des Moines downtown, visited City Hall, and one of the art garden nearby. The art garden, the Pappajohn Sculpture Park was dedicated on September 27, 2009, located in Western Gateway Park from 10th to 15th Streets and between Grand Avenue and Locust Street. It showcases a collection of 24 world class sculptures valued at more than $40 million donated by Des Moines philanthropists John and Mary Pappajohn. Resting on 4.4 acres (2 ha) of green space, the sculpure park is designed as an outdoor art museum. Nearby is the beautifully restored and historic Temple for Performing Arts, reborn as a cultural center for the city. Next to the Temple is the 117,000-square-foot Central Library, with its ultramodern, freeform architecture and "organic" roof designed by renowned English architect David Chipperfield.

As it was late at night, the City Hall or State Capital Building was not open. However, it did not deny us from enjoying the view of the city from the hill. The day was still bright despite late night, we still can see the downtown from the garden at the Capital Hill. The Iowa State Capitol is the state capitol building of Iowa state. Housing the Iowa General Assembly, it is located in the state capital of Des Moines at East 9th Street and Grand Avenue. The building was constructed between 1871 and 1886.

The Iowa State Capitol is among the most beautiful state capitols in the country. Arising in the east and facing westward toward downtown, the capitol building with its 275-foot, 23-karat gold leafed dome towering above the city is a favorite of sightseers. Four smaller domes flank the main dome. The Capitol houses the governor's offices, legislature, and the old Supreme Court Chambers. The ornate interior also features a grand staircase, mural "Westward", five-story law library, scale model of the USS Iowa, and collection of first lady dolls. Guided tours are available. The Capitol grounds include a World War II memorial with sculpture and Wall of Memories. Other monuments include the 1894 Soldiers and Sailors Monument of the Civil War and memorials honoring those who served in the Spanish-American, Korean, and Vietnam Wars.

It is the only five-domed state capitol in the country. The building is brick with limestone from Iowa, Missouri, Minnesota, Ohio, and Illinois. Iowa stone is the foundation for the many porticoes of the building. Both front and back porticoes have pediments supported by six Corinthian columns each. The dome of the capitol is gilded in tissue-paper thin sheets of pure 23-karat gold, with a protective layer sealing the gold from the elements, and the top of its finial peak is 275 feet (83.8 m) above the ground. From its opening in 1884 until 1924 it was the tallest building in Des Moines, and probably the tallest in Iowa.

The West Capitol Terrace provides a stunning entrance from the west to the state's grandest building, the State Capitol Building. With its picturesque views, the lush, 10 acre "people's park" at the foot of the Capitol complex includes a promenade and landscaped gardens, in addition to providing public space for rallies and special events. A granite map of Iowa depicting all 99 counties rests at the base of the terrace which has become a popular attraction for in-state visitors, many of whom can be seen walking over the map to find their home county.

Iowa's history lives on in the State of Iowa Historical Museum. This modern granite and glass structure at the foot of the State Capitol Building houses permanent and temporary exhibits exploring the people, places, events, and issues of Iowa's past. The showcase includes native wildlife, American Indian and pioneer artifacts, and political and military items. The Museum features a genealogy and Iowa history library, museum gift shop, and cafe.(ref: wikipedia)

Tim was such a nice young man with good manner, a shy, helpful and friendly person. He was our guide and driver in Des Moines. A tall young graduate with blond hair, dressed simple, and easy going.

Shopping at Walmart, the US supermarket chain we had heard so much. The location is 73rd Street, Windsor Heights, West Des Moines. Walmart is the world's largest retailer. In 2010 it was the world's largest public corporation by revenue, according to the Forbes Global 2000 for that year.

Went to one of the lake garden at De Moines...The Gray's Lake Park, the night view of the Des Moines city from the park is beautiful. Gray's Lake, as part of popular Gray's Lake Park, features a boat rental facility, fishing pier, floating boardwalks, and a park resource center. Located just south of the downtown, the centerpiece of the park is a lighted trail encircling the entire park. Kruidenier Trail bridge across Gray's Lake, was lighted with colorful light at night.

Night, still cold.

15-5-2010(Saturday)Des Moines

2nd day at De Moines, still cold, but with sunshine.

Watching garden birds at the garden, see some squirrels. Really enjoyed the morning and the fresh air, with birds and squirrels moving in the garden seeking for food.

Ben took his USA driving license, and passed.

Took Italian food at Olive Garden for lunch. Not familiar with the food ethic and manner, still prefer rice. But it is alright for me, but not wife who has allergy for milk related food.

At night, sharing with Mr Bruce on the life of mother-in-law, as he got the news from the other graduate's mother, that my mother in law have passed away recently. It was emotional moment during the sharing.

Mother in law has been to Iowa state in early 80s, during my brother in law's student days. But I do not know is it Iowa City or Ames, as she did not mentioned the city. She always mentioned Iowa, the place must be significant in her heart. We are now following her footsteps into Iowa state. Prior to her sickness, we had asked her to follow us to revisit Iowa. But she was not prepare for the long hours flight due to her old age. She is however willing to go again to her husband ancestral land, Dapu, China; another place that is dear to her heart, which is with shorter flying time from Malaysia. Even she has passed away days ago, by stepping foot into Iowa state, bought me memories of her...

May be we are bringing her wishes and blessing to Iowa....even she has no longer physically with us. We know she will be proud and happy.... we had good time with her....

A good cold night, but the moment with mother in law still linger in my mind, tears flowing out when think of her.....

16-5-2010 Des Moines(Sunday)

It was a graduation days for the newly graduated. An active days at Des Moines. A grand graduation ceremony, with many parents and friends coming , some all the way from oversea. The President David Maxwell give a presentation of good music at the graduation ceremony, a special and unique way. He picked up his Gibson Les Paul guitar and played a blues ballad with renowned saxophonist Dick Oatts, who had just accepted an honorary Doctor of Music degree from the University.



After the graduation ceremony, it was Malaysian students gathering for photo session. You can see their joy and sense of achievement.

Today is Sunday,we missed the church service, only managed to arrive for lunch at the Church Camp. The graduates are giving testimonies and end with photo session again for all church members who have graduated today.

A brief stop at the house of Asian Affairs Coordinator, Des Moines City Hall. A Taiwanese Chinese with her husband. All Asian graduates were invited and gathered at her house. A friendly and helpful lady, who cared for Asian students. It was food and photo again.

Another function at a fellow graduate's house, a celebration for graduation of the 3 family members. I am really full with food, and hospitality.

The day end with tiredness and feeling of goodness and joy. Anyway it is a happy day for all newly graduated. May they have good future and success in their new undertaking.

A night of good rest for us, as we shall be leaving the place, Des Moines tomorrow (17th May) to Chicago. It is still a cold night, but a good night.

Des Moines
Iowa State
USA

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Changi Airport

I am now in Changi Airport , Singapore. Waiting for the transit to USA. It is late night , I am using the free service provide by the airport. This is T3 of the airport. Tomorrow morning I will be going to Hong Kong on the way to Chicago by air.

The day is spend travelling in the air, just received news mother in law just passed away today on 12-5-2010. Remember the time spending with her in Penang when she is seeking treatment at the hospital in Penang. She was suffering from Lung cancer. The courage and spirit that she revealed during treatment, and the time spending with her sharing about the time she visited USA, and China. Despite the suffering, depite the time of in and out of the hospital; we have great time sharing and laughing. The time seem to be just passed recently and now she is gone. She has been touring many countries as an old woman, she anticipated to visit her late husband's ancestral home in Dapu, China; but she did not make it to visit again. We had been visited the beautiful county of Dapu with her, my children and wife; we have beautiful time together, and we promised that we will go again. Ssd to say, she did not realise the dream. Farewell, mother in law....

Wife was sad as we are not able to attend the funeral as we are on the way to USA. We will remember her in the air, may her soul rest in peace. We will always remember her. The time together will be cherish by us. Goodbye, mother in law.....

She will be foreever remember by our family.....

2.50 am 13/5/2010
Changi Airport, Singapore

Monday, May 10, 2010

Luwak Coffee(貓屎咖啡)

Do you know what is the most expensive coffee in the world?, it is the shit of civet cat. It is an Indonesian coffee, the coffee produced from the shit of civet cat. The civet cat will eat the ripe coffee berries, after going through its digestive system,the ultimate end product are the feces discharged from the cat, which contained the coffee seed, which when brew into coffee, will be called "Luwak coffee, or Kopi Luwak". The most expensive coffee in the world, and considered the best in the world, it is from Indonesia, Luwak Coffee. It is not shit matter(or nonsense), it is the true coffee....it is real shit coffee.

By the way, 1-4-2010 or April Fool Day is over, it is not April Fool joke, but a real story of the shit, shit coffee.....and the best, environmental friendly coffee, animal right champion coffee(if the coffee seeds are collected from the wild).... the aroma from the cat shit is with the best coffee aroma. Sound odd? It is not shit all the way, it is coffee all the way....and it is Luwak Coffee.

This is what wikipedia said:

"Kopi luwak , or civet coffee, is coffee made from the beans of coffee berries which have been eaten by the Asian Palm Civet or Paradoxurus hermaphroditus(麝香貓) and other related civets, then passed through its digestive tract. A civet eats the berries for their fleshy pulp. In its stomach, proteolytic enzymes seep into the beans, making shorter peptides and more free amino acids. Passing through a civet's intestines the beans are then defecated, having kept their shape. After gathering, thorough washing, sun drying, light roasting and brewing, these beans yield an aromatic coffee with much less bitterness, widely noted as the most expensive coffee in the world".

The aroma of the Luwak Coffee depended on what types of the coffee berries the Asian Palm Civet have eaten; it may be specific type, or blends of arabica, robusta, liberica, excelsa or other beans which was cultivated and eaten by the Civet Cat. So the aroma vary.

If you want to drink the most expensive coffee in the world, remember to ask for " Kopi Luwak or Civet Cat's Coffee(麝香貓咖啡), or Animal Coffee". Coffee critic Chris Rubin has said, "The aroma is rich and strong, and the coffee is incredibly full bodied, almost syrupy. It’s thick with a hint of chocolate, and lingers on the tongue with a long, clean aftertaste."

It is US$300 per pound.....US$50 per cup....

What is so special about Luwak Coffee?

When a Kopi Luwak coffee bean, the world’s most expensive coffee, comes out the other end of a large cat after it’s been eaten by the animal – called a civet or Luwak – the micro-structural properties of the beans are altered, according to new research by a University of Guelph scientist published in Food Research International. They’re harder, more brittle and darker in colour than the same type of bean that hasn’t been eaten and digested by the Civet Cat. The changes in the beans show that during transit through the civet’s GI track, various digestive biochemicals are actually penetrating the outer coffee cherry and reaching the actual bean surface, where a chemical colour change takes place. During the night, the civet uses its eyesight and smell to seek out and eat only the ripest coffee cherries,” he said. “The coffee cherry fruit is completely digested by the Luwak, but the beans are excreted in their feces(Massimo Marcone, 2004)

Research by food scientist Massimo Marcone at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada showed that the civet's endogenous digestive secretions seep into the beans. These secretions carry proteolytic enzymes which break down the beans' proteins, yielding shorter peptides and more free amino acids. Since the flavor of coffee owes much to its proteins, there is a hypothesis that this shift in the numbers and kinds of proteins in beans after being swallowed by civets brings forth their unique flavor. The proteins are also involved in non-enzymatic Maillard browning reactions brought about later by roasting. Moreover, whilst inside a civet the beans begin to germinate by malting which also lowers their bitterness (source: wikipedia)

The internal fermentation by digestive enzymes adds a unique flavour to the beans, which Marcone said has been described as “earthy, musty, syrupy, smooth and rich with jungle and chocolate undertones.”

“The civet beans are lower in total protein, indicating that during digestion, proteins are being broken down and are also leached out of the bean,” said Marcone. “Since proteins are what make coffee bitter during the roasting process, the lower levels of proteins decrease the bitterness of Kopi Luwak coffee.”

“When coffee cherries are processed through the digestive track, they actually undergo a type of wet processing due to acidification in the stomach and fermentation due to the natural intestinal microflora. Lactic acid bacteria are preferred in wet processing systems. Lactic acid bacteria happen to be major colonizing bacteria in the civet’s digestive track.” The unique Kopi Luwak flavour could be due to the type of wet process the beans undergo in the animal’s digestive tracks

Marcone found that although civet coffee beans are significantly more contaminated than regular beans, the civet beans on the market are actually quite clean. “Civet beans are typically extensively washed under running water after collection, which dislodges bacteria

(reference: http://www.uoguelph.ca/news/archives/005780.html)

The video upload from youtube will give you some information on the coffee;



Types and distribution of Luwak Coffee

The Indonesian called it Kopi Luwak, in Indonesian language or even Malay language; the kopi is coffee, and Luwak is the name of Asian palm civet in Sumatra. Kopi luwak is produced on the islands of Sumatra, Java, Bali and Sulawesi in the Indonesian Archipelago, in the Philippines (where the product is called motit coffee in the Cordillera and kape alamid in Tagalog areas) and also in East Timor (where it is called kafé-laku). Sumatra is the world's largest regional producer of kopi lowak. Sumatran civet coffee beans are mostly an early arabica variety cultivated in the Indonesian archipelago since the seventeenth century. Tagalog cafe alamid (or alamid cafe) comes from civets fed on a mixture of coffee beans and is sold in the Batangas region along with gift shops near airports in the Philippines.

Is it a process or specific coffee type?

To Vietnamese and other supporters, Luwak Coffee is a process and not type of coffee. It is the natural process that make the coffee and it is not specific type of coffee. The natural process can be stimulated by artificial process. The main characteristics of the coffee are: exceptionally pleasing initial aroma, generally lighter roast (due to the low bitterness and the enzyme structural action, heavy roasting is not needed to bring out more flavor), smooth, buttery mouthfeel, a hint of chocolate overtones, and a haunting persistance not just on the pallet but on the memory. People say they can "recall the wonderful taste" for as long as a 2-3 hours after having a cup. These characteristics are generally present in all Kopi Luwak, even though the taste experience will be different due to the choice of beans and roast level, etc.

The process can be stimulated by isolated duplicate enzymes, the Luwak coffee can be produced.

The Simulated Civet Coffee or Synthetic Civet Coffee

Civet coffee is also a popular coffeehouse drink in Vietnam, where producers make simulated civet coffee. In 1996 German scientists hired by Trung Nguyen Coffee Company in Viet Nam isolated six digestive enzymes in the civet's digestive tract and a patented synthetic soak with these enzymes was developed to simulate the natural effect. Trung Nguyen's simulated product is called Legendee and is often the first kopi luwak-like coffee tasted by tourists in Southeast Asia(source: wikipedia). It is reported to be the only process using duplicate a natural enzyme soak process that would approximate the same effect.

For information, Vietnam is the world's second largest producer of coffee (second to Brazil).

Imitated Civet Coffee

But beware of the imitation, some kopi luwak simulations are not enzyme soaks but rather, roasts of high quality beans with added flavorings. So please insist on the natural Civet Coffee from the wild(may be more expensive now), or at least the genuine original Civet Coffee which is the defecation from Asian Palm Civet.


If you cannot bear the original smell or aroma of the coffee; then do not drink the coffee raw from the animal. The locals of Indonesia used to make Luwak Coffee, directly boiled, and drink it together. The blog http://penangcoffeelane.blogspot.com/ however will provide you with different ways to brew it in a modern way as the blogger, who was the owner of a cafe, has personally tried it and found a way to retain the aroma of the coffee to suit the modern man. For more information on the coffee and its process from civet cat, please visit the website.

Note the blogger's cafe(not me)in Penang is Coffee Lane(咖啡坊), 10-B, King Street, Penang, Malaysia(Tel: 04-261 0625). If you happen to be in Penang, and wish to try the most expensive coffee in the world, and best coffee in the world, the Luwak Coffee, do visit the Coffee Lane Cafe and try it yourself..... A place where Coffee is Freshly Ground, Freshly Brewed and Freshly Served,even for Luwak Coffee.

Kopi-o, Nescaffee, Coffee bean, all types of coffee, and now......

Shit.......Luwak Coffee.....

References and related articles:

1. New research explains structure, taste of Kopi Luwak coffee(2004), by Massimo Marcone, Department of Food Science,University of Guelph, Canada. http://www.uoguelph.ca/news/archives/005780.html
2. Legendee: The Legend of the Weasel, http://www.trung-nguyen-online.com/legendee.html
3. Common Palm Civet, http://pkukmweb.ukm.my/~ahmad/kuliah/manusia/tugasan/2004/civet.pdf
4. Kopi Luwak, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kopi_Luwak
5. Coffee Lane, http://penangcoffeelane.blogspot.com/

Friday, May 7, 2010

A short note

Sorry for not posting anything lately. Mother in law was critically ill and facing some family pressure lately.

Highly concern on the earthquake on Qing Hai Province China, and the volcano eruption at Iceland. Iceland was the nation I talk and asked a lot prior to my retirement. It is the country that I wish to visit one day. But the beautiful nation was unfortunately faced with economic crisis and natural disaster. It attracted investment during its economically good days, cash was flowing in, especially the hard earned monies from the UK retirees. Then, come the Banking Crisis. Now Iceland can only return the deposit cash without "C", its volcanic ash to them. Cash without C is Ash....

I have a office friend, who have a relative in Iceland. She has been there and bought back a lot of photo from her visit. It is beautiful. It is pity Iceland has to face all the unfortunate crisis. One can be avoid, the Banking Crisis; one is an act of God, the volcano eruption. It will need a long time for Iceland to recover, not only financially but psychologically....

The earth movement is now active, the earth is disturbed by the human violation of mother earth. The climate is changing, the air is polluted, the river is dirty, the ice in the north pole is melting. Earthquake of 9.1 is anticipated in Sumatra,by the geologist, some big cities may be swallowed by the sand storm and become desert, some cities may be sinked under the sea water, there will be more natural disaster, if human did not learn how to love the mother earth they lived. We start wars, we played political games to destroy; but we do not care about the mother earth, including her habitants of fellow human being, animals, plants and the natural surrounding.

Qing Hai province is close to Schichuan which also faced earthquake in the past; the people there are mainly Tibetan, and other minorities. Looking at the way the Chinese government initiated their effort to relief work, I wonder what Dalai Lama is doing now?. The people there are peace loving people, are we still support the politic which we do not know, but actually the games played by the superpowers; or let the people continue living peacefully in their grassland, without disturb their living momentum ? which the modern man has lost, but now become precious...despite the tears and suffering, we know this people will overcome, like their ancestors, they are the people of the mountain, strong will to live under harsh conditions.

Beautiful land , beautiful people. Yet there is no way to escape from the natural disaster. The people around them are still playing their games, going on with their living; there are help, there are concern. But soon it will be forgotten, and we are going our own way to destroy the mother earth again..... May be, human being always forgot, and still waiting for another great flood and Noah to save the mankind....

If you care about yourself, your mother earth; your fellow human being; stop to hear from politician with no universal love for others, but their own political agenda; NGO who care only their narrow minded objectives, but not others fellow human being; Religion leaders who wear wolf clothing, who promote war, power, financial gains, but did not care about the basic right of fellow human being to live. There are also the so called consultants or sale personnels who provide services that their products can cure cancer and sicknesses, change a person to expert, providing false hope to mankind ;If each of us were to listen less to this people, and focus our effort to create a world for each other to live in dignity, to protect our mother earth, our life will be much better.....

Remember if the majority German dare to stand up and said NO to Hitler, there will not be WW2, no genocide, no destruction. But the majority remain silence and let the minority lead the way...let not forget, the bad minority can destroy the good majority. It is time the majority to stand up, for human being, for mother earth.

Avoid following the crowd blindly, alway use our basic common sense; as a human being is it right to do that.... it is our common sense or the natural human instinct, do you like other people to do the same things; if no, avoid it....

Life is beautiful, it always be; the earth is beautiful, it is always there; should we let the minority destroy our beautiful life in this earth; they are not God or the one who control our life or this mother earth.

From today, we the majority who love life; must stand up to say No to the minority who have only their narrow minded agenda, and destroy the world. We must tell them this mother earth and the people need to continue living...

Said NO to them.....